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My trekking poles have seen more weather than my umbrella. I’ve hiked into Ghorepani with rhododendrons dropping petals on my pack like confetti, and I’ve sat in a Namche teahouse listening to sleet hammer a tin roof, wondering why I…
My phone, the week before any road trip, looks like a cry for help. Three navigation apps, open and arguing with each other. A gas app. A camping app I haven’t touched since March. An audiobook app that’s already eaten…
Distance: ~130 km round trip | Duration: 12–16 days | Highest point: Kala Patthar, 5,545m | Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging There’s a particular kind of person who decides to trek to Everest Base Camp. They’re not, on the whole, mountaineers.…
Distance: 160–230 km | Duration: 11–20 days | Highest point: Thorong La Pass, 5,416m | Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging I am, by instinct, a planner. The kind of traveler who reads weather forecasts for places they haven’t booked yet. Who…
There’s a particular kind of dread that sets in the night before a trip. You’re staring at an open suitcase, wondering if you’ve packed too much, too little, or somehow managed both at once. Half your bed is covered in…
I once packed four books, two magazines, and a “light” 800-page novel for a nine-hour flight, and spent the entire time staring at the seatback map watching a tiny plane icon inch across the Atlantic at what I can only…
I spent three weeks before my first Nepal trek reading everything I could find about permits, only to land in Kathmandu and discover half of it was already out of date. A trekking agency I’d never contacted patiently explained that…
I once stood at a lounge entrance in Frankfurt, watching my boarding time tick down, while an attendant scanned my very shiny, very useless credit card and said, “I’m sorry, this one doesn’t qualify.” Behind me, a man in cargo…
I have, on more than one occasion, kept fourteen browser tabs open comparing the same rental listing across four different sites, hunting for a two-dollar discrepancy that would somehow justify the hour I’d already spent. Is that thoroughness or a…
I once spent eleven hours building a color-coded spreadsheet for my cousin’s honeymoon. Flights, layovers, backup flights in case the first flights got cancelled, a tab for “restaurants in case the other restaurants are closed,” a tab for restaurants in…
