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My first pair of compression socks arrived two days before a fourteen-hour flight, and getting them on felt like wrestling a stubborn sausage casing onto each leg. I landed with my ankles still looking like ankles instead of the swollen…
Somewhere in Nepal, on a trail that Google Maps confidently insisted was a road, I stood ankle-deep in a dry creek bed watching my phone’s blue dot suggest I keep walking straight into a hillside. The route had washed out…
I have, on three separate occasions, booked an Airbnb that looked like a charming $58-a-night studio and watched it become a $91-a-night studio by the time I hit “Reserve.” I have let myself into a “boutique stay” via a keypad…
My trekking poles have seen more weather than my umbrella. I’ve hiked into Ghorepani with rhododendrons dropping petals on my pack like confetti, and I’ve sat in a Namche teahouse listening to sleet hammer a tin roof, wondering why I…
My phone, the week before any road trip, looks like a cry for help. Three navigation apps, open and arguing with each other. A gas app. A camping app I haven’t touched since March. An audiobook app that’s already eaten…
Distance: ~130 km round trip | Duration: 12–16 days | Highest point: Kala Patthar, 5,545m | Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging There’s a particular kind of person who decides to trek to Everest Base Camp. They’re not, on the whole, mountaineers.…
Distance: 160–230 km | Duration: 11–20 days | Highest point: Thorong La Pass, 5,416m | Difficulty: Moderate to Challenging I am, by instinct, a planner. The kind of traveler who reads weather forecasts for places they haven’t booked yet. Who…
There’s a particular kind of dread that sets in the night before a trip. You’re staring at an open suitcase, wondering if you’ve packed too much, too little, or somehow managed both at once. Half your bed is covered in…
I once packed four books, two magazines, and a “light” 800-page novel for a nine-hour flight, and spent the entire time staring at the seatback map watching a tiny plane icon inch across the Atlantic at what I can only…
I spent three weeks before my first Nepal trek reading everything I could find about permits, only to land in Kathmandu and discover half of it was already out of date. A trekking agency I’d never contacted patiently explained that…
